Right now, new fibres and fabrics specifically developed for their performance properties – rather than their sustainable advantages – are somewhat rare.

The current focus of R&D globally is on how to replace oil-based feedstocks with natural alternatives and how post-consumer apparel waste – facing imminent bans from being landfilled or incinerated – can best be introduced back into the textile manufacturing supply chain.

The exceptions to this are the materials that are being constantly improved upon to meet the challenging needs of the military and emergency services where sustainable credentials tend to take something of a back seat.

In addition, other fabrics still based on advanced synthetic fibres and chemicals are being designed for protection in extreme outdoor sports, or to boost the performance of elite athletes.

Invisibility with Stealth

Two UK-based fabric manufacturers, for example, Carrington Textiles and Heathcoat Fabrics, have this year announced a number of interesting new launches.

Adlington, Lancashire-based Carrington’s new Stealth technology for the defence market has been designed to provide superior thermal shielding on the battlefield, effectively creating an invisibility cloak so that the fabric merges with the scenery as a result of a highly conductive new technology.

Stealth’s patented fabric technology manages dynamic energy waves for mission critical security and protection, effectively shielding soldiers from the many sensors employed to track them down on the modern battlefield.

Created in collaboration with Noble Biomaterials, based in Scranton, Pennsylvania, Stealth delivers broad-spectrum short, medium and long wave infrared thermal signature management in a lightweight, durable fabric. It exploits Noble’s Circuitex Sigma technology, which is designed to mitigate thermal detection in military environments.

“Initial feedback from wearer trials of this concept in military field training exercises and in camp observation, has proved that with Stealth, the thermal signature of a soldier is completely mitigated at different distances,” says Carrington Textiles sales director Paul Farrell. “The material is almost indistinguishable from the surrounding terrain, regardless of viewing angles.”

“Our patented Circuitex technology is designed to protect soldiers and equipment from detection by advanced sensors,” adds Noble Biomaterials’ founder Joel Furey. “We are proud to provide allied war fighters with an operational advantage in combat situations.”

Chemical protection with NeutraliZr

Another interesting material for protecting soldiers – this time from chemical warfare agents – is NeutraliZr, developed by Heathcoat with Guild Associates, a US team of scientists based in Dublin, Ohio, US.

NeutraliZr is engineered to provide unparalleled capabilities in rapidly adsorbing and detoxifying chemical warfare agents. It features zirconium hydroxide, known for its swift adsorption and detoxification properties. It is applied to the textile in a unique dust-free, non-shedding coating formulation.

Heathcoat’s material is capable of detoxifying unbroken skin coming into direct contact with contaminated surfaces, ensuring the rapid adsorption of chemical agents.

One of the flagship applications of NeutraliZr technology is the Universal Decontamination Mitt (UDM), designed to decontaminate both equipment and unbroken skin.

Crafted entirely from NeutraliZr, the UDM has demonstrated exceptional efficacy in decontaminating the surfaces of military items and unbroken skin exposed to chemical warfare agents and their simulants. In rigorous testing, the UDM achieved over 90 per cent decontamination efficacy on porcine skin, representing unbroken human skin, and removed over 99 per cent of chemical agents and simulants from contaminated items.

Shielding against nerve agents

Building on this success, Heathcoat and Guild Associates have now developed a PFAS-free CBRN (chemical, biological, radiological and nuclear) suit for the US military’s Uniform Integrated Protective Ensemble (UIPE) programme. This next-generation suit offers enhanced chemical protection and detoxification against VX, GB and HD nerve agents, as well as aerosol protection. With improved comfort, reduced thermal burden and increased breathability, the PFAS-free suit sets a new standard for lightweight CBRN protection.

“We are thrilled to introduce NeutraliZr technology, a game-changer in military chemical defence,” says John Stimpson, business manager for woven fabrics at Heathcoat. “Our collaboration with Guild Associates has resulted in solutions that address critical needs for rapid decontamination and enhanced protection. We look forward to continuing to push the boundaries of textile technology to safeguard military and first response personnel.”

Moisture wicking for the military

For more day-to-day military applications, the new Drytec surface-to-surface moisture-wicking spacer fabric developed by Tiverton, Devon-based Heathcoat has been designed to actively draw perspiration from the skin, allowing the moisture to be dispersed through the textile to the outer fabric surface, ultimately improving the thermo-physiological comfort of the user.

The surface-to-surface moisture movement ensures personnel remain dry and comfortable when carrying heavy personal equipment.

Crafted from a special composition of polyester monofilaments and cellulosic yarns, Drytec is highly soft, comfortable and breathable, but also constructed to be durable and resistant to wear and tear. Its compressible air gap structure provides shock absorption and weight distribution, making it ideal for use in backpack straps, lumber supports and ballistic plate carriers.

Kevlar and Nomex developments

Since their introduction in the 1960s, DuPont’s Kevlar para-aramid and Nomex meta-aramid fibres have been staple ingredients in fabrics and equipment for the military and emergency services.

With advanced corrosion and heat resistance, extremely strong and lightweight Kevlar is woven into textile materials and is widely used in body armour and bulletproof vests, in addition to car brakes and aerospace and marine components.

Nomex is an inherently flame-resistant, high-temperature resistant fibre that will not melt, drip, or support combustion in air supplied in paper, felt, fabric and fibre forms.

For the past ten years, DuPont has recognised the design innovations of Kevlar and Nomex brand licensees using these fibres in personal protective equipment (PPE) at its annual Protection Innovation Awards.

Arc flash hazards

In 2024, the three winning products included the Kut Guard arc flash sleeve developed by Protective Industrial Products (PIP), headquartered in Latham, New York, which features both Kevlar and Nomex fibres in a single arc rated protective design in a seamless knitted single-ply shell. This latest addition to the PIP portfolio of hand and arm protection equipment provides superior comfort and protection benefits to workers who face mechanical, contact heat and arc flash hazards.

Another winner was the Mechanix Wear Leather needlestick law enforcement glove which is designed to deliver hazard protection against hypodermic needles, blades and other sharp threats that police officers, SWAT units and corrections officers may encounter while on duty.

ArmorCore needlestick resistant technology utilises a proprietary spun yarn blended with Kevlar fibres to create a flexible single-layer woven material. It has a lighter more dextrous needlestick barrier covering the entire palm and rolling over the fingertips. In addition to puncture protection, the glove integrates a 360° resistant liner to ensure protection from cuts and lacerations. An outer shell of Durahide flame retardant goat skin leather incorporates hot-stamped grip overlays on the fingers and palm for improved durability, grip and comfort.

Dexterity despite multiple layers

The third winner was Youngstown’s Waterproof Extreme winter mitt which has been developed for use in the harshest environments and features a unique ‘trigger finger’ design for good dexterity while also keeping the hands warm.

It is designed for workers exposed to extreme conditions in the utilities, oil and gas, and construction industries and comprised of multiple layers, including a flame-resistant fleece liner and a layer of comfortable Nomex 120g insulation. The inner liner – constructed from 100 per cent Kevlar – provides cut protection, while a waterproof membrane layer – applied over a double-layered leather outer shell – provides a reliable barrier against extreme cold-weather elements.

“The demand for multi-risk hazard protection in a single glove or sleeve design continues to be a trend,” says Christine Christmas, global market leader at DuPont Personal Protection. “Our licensees are investing in expanded research to find new materials that offer cut, heat, flame and electrical arc protection.”

Lightest outer shell for firefighters

TenCate Protective Fabrics, based in Nijverdal in the Netherlands, has partnered with PBI Products, the Charlotte, North Carolina-headquartered specialist in flame retardant fibres, for the launch of the new PBI Peak5 outer shell for fire service apparel.

The polybenzimidazole (PBI) synthetic fibres manufactured by PBI Products possess high chemical resistance and are inflammable in air. They do not exhibit any melting point so do not drip when exposed to flame, at temperatures of up to 560˚C. Further, PBI fibres retain their strength without infringement even when exposed to extreme higher temperatures and under serious conditions emanate little smoke.

In addition to firefighter’s gear, the advanced thermal stability of PBI sees it employed in protective gloves, welding apparel, astronaut space suits and aircraft wall fabrics. PBI is also used as a plastic reinforcement for heat and chemical resistant filters and for various other civil engineering applications. The fibre is often blended with DuPont’s Kevlar.

The PBI Peak5 is the lightest outer shell engineered by TenCate Protective Fabrics to date and contains an extremely high percentage of PBI fibres. It also integrates TenCate’s Enforce technology, which blends multiple fibres into high-strength yarn structures.

“PBI Peak5 was designed specifically for fire brigades seeking an ultra-lightweight outer shell that still offers the unmatched flame-resistance under extreme conditions that PBI is known for,” says Helmut Zepf, managing director of PBI’s PPE Division.

PBI Peak5 outer shell fabric meets global safety standards, including certifications for EN (European Norms), ISO, AS/NZS (Australia/New Zealand standards), and NFPA (National Fire Protection Association). It is now available in markets throughout Europe, including Germany, the Netherlands, Belgium, Luxembourg and the UK.

Stopping power with Dyneema

A next-generation unidirectional (UD) fabric has meanwhile been launched this year by Geleen, Netherlands-headquartered Dyneema, based on its third-generation ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE).

The latest Dyneema fibre has an even higher tenacity, resulting in increased ballistic stopping power when used in the new UD material, Dyneema SB301, for protective armour applications.

The improvement in performance enables body armour manufacturers to design soft armour vests 10–20 per cent lighter than previous protective solutions.

“In every situation, weight is now considered to be the top priority after ballistic stopping power,” says Marcelo van de Kamp, global business director for personal protection at Avient, the owner of Dyneema. “That’s because survivability is directly tied to weight savings when speed and agility determine outcomes.”

Dyneema SB301 surpasses the performance of Dyneema Force Multiplier Technology, which itself marked a radical step-change in ballistic performance. Point Blank Enterprises, headquartered in Miami Lakes, Florida, has this year marked the sale of its millionth Alpha Elit protective vest based on this Dyneema technology.

Beyond strength, Dyneema SB301 has the additional advantage of being made from bio-based Dyneema fibre, which enables a carbon footprint up to 90 per cent lower than generic high modulus polyethylene (HMPE) fibres.

“With Dyneema, end-users do not have to choose between sustainability and protection,” says van de Kamp. “This is a critical differentiator for Dyneema as governmental agencies look to implement stricter environmental regulations around CO₂ emissions for the personal protection market.”

Dyneema SB301 material is currently manufactured in Greenville, North Carolina, in compliance with the Berry Amendment for the US market.

UHMWPE benefits for bikers

In another development based on UHMWPE moving away from the military and emergency services, Armalith 2.0 is the latest fabric for protective wear especially for motorcycling. It has been engineered to combine the mechanical qualities of leather’s extreme resistance to cuts, traction, tears and abrasion with the comfort of denim.

Armalith 2.0 also benefits from a high UV resistance that preserves its mechanical properties and as a single-layer product, its resistance is said to be superior to any competing lined products.

The fabric is, however, a true denim, being soft, supple, comfortable, breathable and hydrophilic. It can also accommodate all conventional denim textures, indigo dyes, prints and finishing at low temperatures.

At the core of the fabric is up to 50 per cent UHMWPE, a fibre also used in space module re-entry ropes, military armour, and mooring cables for offshore platforms. The UHMWPE core is covered with a cotton fibre using an exclusive and patented process, and combined with Lycra dualFX technology, to provide powerful and durable stretch.

The fabric is designed in France and manufactured at a single site – Tejidos Royo in Spain – from spinning and weaving to indigo dyeing and finishing.

UHMWPE fibre requires half the energy to produce compared to aramids, and the specific UHMWPE fibre used under the Armalith 2.0 patent is continuous, ensuring no energy-intensive cracking occurs. It is also untextured, eliminating another energy-intensive process.

Armalith 2.0 is resistant to more than a thousand washes without loss of elasticity.

Aerogels and aramids

For general protection from the elements in outdoor activities, Outlast Technologies, based in Heidenheim an der Brenz, Germany, has introduced the Aersulate insulation range combining aerogels and aramid fibres.

The resulting flame-resistant fabrics are exceptionally thin and, unlike other insulation materials, remain largely unaffected by moisture and pressure. Aerogels are made from silica, the basic material of sand, and have been successfully used by NASA. They have a highly porous structure with an air content of about 98 per cent, making them the lightest solid materials in the world. This high air content and the microporous structure typical of aerogels are ideal pre-requisites for highly functional insulation materials.

Based on extensive research and development, Outlast has now succeeded in permanently bonding aerogels to textile substrates in very high concentrations, without affecting the original properties of the textile or modifying subsequent processing procedures, leading to excellent insulating performance.

When comparing identical nonwoven substrates with and without Aersulate technology, Outlast achieves an increase in thermal resistance of up to 100 per cent. At the same time, the fabrics are very breathable and highly hydrophobic and can be equipped with additional flame-retardant properties when requested.

“While conventional insulation materials usually achieve their functionality through increased thickness, Aersulate products are extremely thin,” says Outlast CEO Martin Bentz. “Materials as thin as 1-2 mm can provide excellent insulation offering new potential, whether in the classic consumer goods sector, in technical applications or in the security and construction sectors.”

The range of possible carrier materials that can be equipped with the aerogels is also diverse. In addition to aramid-based qualities, it currently ranges from nonwovens and felts to various composite systems with knitted fabrics.

The aerogel used in Aersulate is produced in Germany and harmless to both health and the environment.

Game-changing Rheon superpolymer

Recently, at the 2024 Summer Olympic Games in France from July 26 to August 11, numerous athletes competing for the UK, Ethiopian and French teams benefited from Adidas’ garments reinforced with Rheon technology, developed by Rheon Labs, a 2017 spin-out from Imperial College London.

These included Adizero Control x Rheon shorts and Techfit Control medium-support bras.

As a naturally soft and flexible material that when subjected to force exhibits instant stiffness, Rheon is a reactive superpolymer with a number of potentially game-changing applications. Prior to the 2024 Olympics it had already helped a number of athletes, including Alexander Munyao, Emmanuel Wanyonyi and Tamirat Tola to break records.

Unlike standard compression technology, the visible zebra-like stripes of Rheon integrated into the Adidas garments of the Olympic athletes react dynamically to body movement, providing support exactly where and when it is needed.

“In its construction, the thermoplastic elastomer composite is a chemical colloidal suspension bringing together two very different ingredients to create new properties,” explains Rheon Labs commercial director Simon Hunstman. “The effect can be likened to sand and water, in the way that when walked on, a wet beach is very soft, but when running, it becomes glass-hard.”

As such, Rheon, which was also initially developed as part of a NASA project, enables the creation of new garments, and the faster the body moves, the more the technology engages.

Small but significant

Rheon enhances elite sports performance where the difference between winning and losing can be down to a matter of seconds, or even less.

Zharnel Hughes, for example, was part of the Team GB quartet receiving bronze medals in the men’s 4 x100 metres race in Paris, running in Adizero Control x Rheon shorts.

Hughes is now not just the British 100 and 200 metres record holder, but also officially the fastest British man in history.

In June 2023, he finally broke Linford Christie’s 30-year-old 100 metres record at the New York City Grand Prix with a time of 9.83 seconds – just 0.04 seconds quicker than Christie’s.

A month later, in a London Diamond League race, he also broke the 200 metres record set in 1993 by John Regis – by 0.01 seconds.

Muscle shearing

Rheon Labs has worked with the University of Wisconsin on the concept of ‘muscle shearing’, aimed at reducing wasted energy to boost performance. This work has involved wrapping straps of Rheon around the essential muscle groups – primarily the quads and hamstrings – and analysing the micro-movements of a runner going through the gait cycle in order to create a dynamic support system.

The idea is to turbocharge properties through a data-driven system based on the collection of muscle movement data in combination with that relating to soft tissue density and bone structure.

In addition to improving the performance of athletes, Rheon Labs also envisages applications for its material in garments designed for injury prevention and also as soft tissue support in a new generation of sports bras.

Carbon capture

Sustainability was inevitably still high on the agenda at the 2024 Paris Olympics, with many athletic kits and uniforms containing natural fibres and recycled materials.

Standing out were the uniforms and polo shirts worn at the Opening Ceremony by Team Taiwan, drawing on both the country’s prowess in advanced textile manufacturing and cultural heritage.

Designed by Justin Chou, the collection featured low-carbon and environmentally friendly polyester fibres made from carbon dioxide gas captured from industrial plants.

The captured gas was polymerised into the fibres in the latest cutting-edge technique by Taiwan companies Far Eastern New Century Corporation (FENC) and New Wide Enterprise.

They were turned into UV-resistant, moisture absorbing and quick drying woven fabrics, which were distinguished by advanced Jacquard patterning and coloured using the latest waterless dyeing process.

Setting a high bar

Nevertheless, despite such laudable achievements, many current fibre and fabric innovations based on more sustainable alternative raw materials are focused on achieving the performance properties that have already been met with synthetic fibres.

Where unbeatable performance is a necessity, synthetic fibres such as Kevlar, Nomex, PBI, UHMWPE and the latest Rheon superpolymer, as well as advanced synthetic coating formulations, set a very high bar.